Restore Boat Hatches
Restoring an older boat often means deciding whether original hardware can be saved rather than replaced. A quality aluminum boat hatch can cost hundreds of dollars new, while used hatches can sometimes be found for very little money. For my Skipper 20 sailboat restoration, I replaced a homemade plywood forward hatch with a used Bomar aluminum hatch and completely restored it. The process provides a practical example of how an old sailboat or trawler hatch can be evaluated, disassembled, cleaned, resealed and returned to service.
Should You Restore or Replace a Boat Hatch?
Not every old hatch should be restored. Before beginning, inspect the aluminum frame, hinges, lens, gasket and operating hardware and consider how the boat will be used. An offshore or bluewater boat may justify purchasing a new hatch, while restoring a quality older hatch can make sense for many recreational sailboats, trawlers and cruisers. Replacement gaskets, handles and sealants also add to the restoration cost, so determine what the hatch needs before deciding whether restoration is economical.
Disassembling and Cleaning an Old Boat Hatch
The restoration begins by carefully disassembling the hatch while saving the original hardware, washers and other small components. After removing the lens, all of the old silicone must be removed from both the aluminum frame and the edge of the lens. I use a combination of careful mechanical cleaning and solvent where appropriate. This preparation takes time, but removing the old sealant and contamination is critical because the new sealant will only perform properly if it bonds to a clean surface.
Replacing the Boat Hatch Gasket
Old hatch gaskets become compressed and deteriorate over time and should generally be replaced during a complete restoration. Don’t simply use the removed gasket to determine the length of the replacement because the original material may have shrunk. Instead, fit the new gasket directly to the hatch frame and cut it to the proper length. On this Bomar hatch, I use small amounts of sealant to hold the gasket securely in the frame, particularly around the corners, and seal the butt joint.
Restoring the Aluminum Frame and Hatch Lens and Gasket
Old hatch gaskets become compressed and deteriorate over time and should generally be replaced during a complete restoration. Don’t simply use the removed gasket to determine the length of the replacement because the original material may have shrunk. Instead, fit the new gasket directly to the hatch frame and cut it to the proper length. On this Bomar hatch, I use small amounts of sealant to hold the gasket securely in the frame, particularly around the corners, and seal the butt joint.
Resealing the Boat Hatch Lens
For this Bomar hatch, I reseal the lens using Dow 795 structural silicone, an industrial-grade glazing sealant. The frame and lens are carefully masked before the sealant is applied so the finished joint has a clean edge. The lens is positioned evenly within the frame and allowed to essentially float in the sealant rather than being forced directly against the aluminum. Surface preparation is especially important, and Dow 795 requires considerably longer to reach full cure than its initial tack-free time.
Once the lens has been resealed, the hatch dogs, handles, washers and other hardware can be reinstalled and adjusted so the hatch closes firmly against its new gasket. The result in this project was a restored Bomar low-profile hatch purchased used for about $20, with roughly another $100 invested in restoration parts and materials. Instead of discarding a quality older hatch, the complete process returned it to useful service for a fraction of the cost of a comparable new hatch.
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