Paint and Wood Finishing
One-Part vs. Two-Part Boat Paint: Which Should You Use?
Do you really need an expensive two-part marine paint to get a durable, professional-looking finish on a fiberglass boat? In this video, I compare one-part vs. two-part boat paints, including two-part systems such as Awlgrip and Alexseal, and explain the practical advantages and disadvantages of each for DIY boat restoration. I discuss application difficulty, surface preparation, cost, repairability and real-world durability, along with why a one-part marine paint can sometimes be the better choice for an amateur boat restorer. The goal isn’t to determine which paint is theoretically superior—it’s to choose the boat-paint system that makes sense for the project, budget and working conditions.
How to Paint a Fiberglass Sailboat Deck
Painting a fiberglass boat deck requires considerably more preparation than simply painting a hull. In this video, I show the complete process of refinishing and painting a sailboat deck, including cleaning years of dirt and contamination, removing old sealant and paint, repairing screw holes with WEST SYSTEM epoxy, and sanding aggressive molded nonskid. I also demonstrate how to carefully mask around deck fittings so the deck can be refinished without removing every piece of hardware. The final surface is painted with Rust-Oleum Marine Topside Paint in Oyster White, demonstrating a practical way to achieve a clean, professional-looking fiberglass deck finish on a DIY boat-restoration budget.
Cheapest and Easiest Way to Restore Sailboat Nonskid
Restoring old sailboat nonskid doesn’t require an expensive specialty deck system. In this video, I show my simple, low-cost approach to refinishing existing molded nonskid on a fiberglass sailboat. I cover cleaning and preparing the old deck surface, masking the nonskid areas for sharp paint lines, choosing contrasting colors for the deck and nonskid, and applying the new finish without removing the original texture. I also cover common painting mistakes and simple touch-up techniques. The result is an inexpensive way to restore worn fiberglass nonskid, improve traction and dramatically improve the appearance of an older sailboat deck.
How to Replace a Sailboat Rub Rail
Old rubber rub rails on vintage fiberglass sailboats eventually become hard, cracked, faded and dry-rotted, making replacement an important part of restoring the hull and deck exterior. In this video, I show how to identify the boat’s hull-to-deck joint and rub-rail profile, find a replacement that matches the original extrusion, and install a new rubber rub rail. I cover straightening tightly coiled replacement material using heat and mechanical stretching, fastening the rail with stainless-steel screws and marine sealant, and installing the final rub-rail rope insert. The process applies to many older fiberglass sailboats with shoebox, inward-flange or outward-flange hull-to-deck joints.
How to Paint a Fiberglass Sailboat Hull with One-Part Marine Paint
Painting a fiberglass sailboat hull doesn’t have to become an expensive pursuit of a perfect yacht finish. In this video, I show my practical approach to preparing and painting a fiberglass sailboat hull using one-part marine paint, including sanding, surface preparation, masking and rolling and tipping Rust-Oleum Marine Topside Paint. I also discuss one-part vs. two-part marine paint, setting realistic expectations for an amateur restoration, creating clean boot and rub-rail stripes, and choosing bottom paint for a trailerable sailboat. The goal is a durable, attractive hull finish without turning a budget boat restoration into a time-and-money pit.
TotalBoat Epoxy Bilge Paint: Application, Review and Lessons Learned
Bilge paint needs to withstand water, oil, fuel and other chemicals while providing a durable, easy-to-clean surface inside the engine room and bilge. In this video, I prepare and paint the bilge of my trawler using TotalBoat Epoxy Bilge Paint, covering surface preparation, application with brushes and rollers, and the problems I encountered during the project. I also provide an unsponsored review of TotalBoat Epoxy Bilge Paint, including issues with cracking and uneven surfaces and the lessons I learned from using it. The video provides a real-world look at where epoxy bilge paint works, where problems can occur, and what to consider before using it in a sailboat or trawler restoration.
How to Get a Mirror-Gloss Finish on Boat Teak Brightwork
Getting a deep, mirror-gloss finish on teak boat brightwork requires building and finishing the coating correctly, not simply adding another coat. In this video, I show my process for preparing and refinishing teak with Sikkens Cetol Marine, then building the finish to produce a smooth, high-gloss appearance. I cover surface preparation, sanding between stages, achieving consistent color, applying gloss topcoats and eliminating surface imperfections. The result is teak trim with the deep, reflective brightwork finish associated with professionally restored sailboats and trawlers.
How to Restore Teak Without Removing It From the Boat
Exterior teak can often be completely restored without removing the trim from the boat. In this video, I show how I refinish weathered teak in place, including preparing and sanding the wood while it remains mounted, carefully masking and protecting the surrounding fiberglass deck, and applying Sikkens Cetol Marine for a durable finished surface. I also cover techniques for working around fittings and edges without damaging the fiberglass. This approach saves considerable time and makes it practical to restore exterior teak brightwork on sailboats and trawlers without dismantling the boat’s trim.
Restoring Old Teak Companionway Steps
Old teak boat furniture and trim can often be rebuilt and restored rather than replaced. In this video, I restore a salvaged set of teak companionway steps by completely disassembling them, removing old teak bungs and stripped bronze screws, repairing and strengthening the joints with epoxy, and installing new bronze fasteners. I then sand and refinish the teak with Sikkens Cetol Marine, cut and install new teak bungs, add non-slip stair treads, and fit the restored companionway steps into the sailboat. The project demonstrates how badly weathered or salvaged teak components can be brought back to life and reused in a classic sailboat restoration.
ikkens Cetol Marine: Original vs Light vs Natural Teak vs Gloss
Which Sikkens Cetol Marine finish should you use on boat teak? In this video, I conduct a side-by-side test of Cetol Marine Original, Cetol Marine Light, Cetol Marine Natural Teak and Cetol Marine Gloss on bare teak to compare their color, appearance and sheen. I also compare Cetol Marine Gloss with Helmsman Spar Urethane for achieving a high-gloss brightwork finish. The test shows how the different Cetol products change the appearance of teak, which products work as base coats versus topcoats, and how to choose a finish for restoring teak on sailboats and trawlers.
How to Repair Cracked Teak
Cracks, splits and old screw holes in boat teak can often be repaired instead of replacing the wood. In this video, I show how I use epoxy mixed with teak sanding dust to fill damaged areas, reinforce cracks along the grain and repair old fastener holes so the repair blends into the surrounding wood. I also cover clamping, curing and sanding the repair smooth, then refinishing with Sikkens Cetol Marine. The method works well for spot repairs on teak trim and other dense boat woods without stripping and refinishing the entire piece.
Refinishing and Restoring Teak Boat Trim
Restoring old boat teak doesn’t have to involve complicated or expensive refinishing. In this video, I show my simple process for restoring weathered teak using Sikkens Cetol Marine Finish, including cleaning and sanding the wood, repairing cracks and holes with epoxy and teak dust, and applying Cetol Marine base coats and gloss topcoats. I also show how the process helps produce a more uniform appearance when working with teak of different ages, colors and conditions. This is the method I’ve used to get a durable, professional-looking teak finish with relatively little maintenance on sailboats and trawlers.
How to Paint and Restore an Old Fiberglass Sailboat
Painting an older fiberglass boat starts with proper surface preparation and choosing the right coating for each part of the boat. In this video, I show the complete process I used to paint and restore a 27-foot sailboat, including pressure washing, sanding and preparing the surfaces before painting the deck, topsides, hull and interior. I compare Rust-Oleum Marine and Sherwin-Williams paints, discuss economical alternatives to expensive marine coatings, and demonstrate spraying techniques for achieving a smooth, durable finish. I also cover lessons learned from painting in confined spaces, working around changing weather conditions and getting professional-looking results on a DIY boat-restoration budget.
Planning Sailboat and Trawler Steering Wheels, Throttle and Helm Controls
A boat helm layout needs to be planned around the steering and engine controls before cutting panels or permanently mounting equipment. In this video, I use full-size templates and mockups to determine the correct placement and clearances for the steering wheel, throttle and shifter, engine controls, autopilot hardware, switches and gauges. I also compare 18-inch and 20-inch steering wheels, adjust helm-chair position for better steering ergonomics, and correct a helm-pod design that interfered with the engine controls. These same planning techniques apply when designing or rebuilding helm stations on both sailboats and trawlers.
Building a Custom Boat Helm for Modern Marine Electronics
Older sailboats and trawlers often need a new helm pod when the original instrument box cannot accommodate modern navigation electronics or interferes with the steering and engine controls. In this video, I show how I design and fabricate a custom helm pod using cardboard patterns and PVC foam board, including sizing the enclosure for Garmin and Simrad electronics, gauges, VHF radio, switches and a rudder indicator. I also cover instrument ventilation, working around throttle and gear-shift clearance, dealing with asymmetrical boat geometry, and using the screw-and-glue method to fabricate the new helm enclosure.